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Oaxaca in December! Land of Mole and Barro Negro
Oaxaca, Mexico
- By
Rhona Richardson |
Wonderful pottery! Exquisite moles! Breathtaking churches! Shoppers' paradise! All these descriptions have been applied to Oaxaca (pronounced wa-ha-ka), one of Mexico's southernmost cities. Hard to imagine that one city could merit all these superlatives and I admit I was definitely skeptical but was I ever wrong! In fact, Oaxaca has all that and more!
My mother and I arrived on a Friday night after a comfortable 6 hour journey from Mexico City in a Mercedes bus equipped with TV's, restrooms and coffee dispenser. A $2 cab ride deposited us at the Hotel Azucenas, a small and relatively new establishment in the shadow of Basilica (Maria Santisima) de la Soledad which dominated the nearby plaza. We were greeted by Donna, one of the hotel owners, which is a joint venture between Mexico and Canada. The rooms were simple (no phones or tv's), but clean and adequate given the reasonable rates we experienced of $45 per night.
An extra $3 would get you a buffet style continental breakfast which included fruit, fresh juice, cereal, cheese, rolls and of course coffee or tea. Quite an appetizing spread for this unassuming establishment! The breakfast was served on the hotel's roof terrace, with its delightful array of potted plants, hanging baskets and brightly colored parasols. The morning greeted us with local song birds and it was clear and crisp affording us a splendid view of the town and surrounding mountains.
Oaxaca, whose name comes from the Aztec word for summit, has to be explored on foot to fully experience the blend of colonial and indigenous worlds. The state of Oaxaca is home to more than 15 indigenous tribes and in this city, the Zapotec are the main ethnic group. This ancestry is evident in many of their faces and their heritage is worn proudly in their traditional attire.
The cloudless blue sky held the promise of warm, comfortable temperatures so we set off early down cobbled streets marveling at the many baroque buildings and churches in this history-laden district. Peeping inside open doorways we caught glimpses of beautifully tiled entrances, fabulous marble arches and terraces strewn with colorful vegetation. Our first destination was the Zocalo, or main square, in the heart of the city, with large expansive trees and verdant shrubs surrounding the pathways and wrought iron benches.
At 9 o'clock in the morning it was already teeming with activity, vendors selling all sorts of wares, the famous black pottery of San Bartolo, hand-woven baskets, luxurious leather goods, meticulously crafted daggers and a never-ending display of beaded jewelry. Restaurants and cafes bordered the square and even at this early hour were bustling with trade.
Christmas decorations dressed every building and strings of lights and streamers were hung from branch to branch, from lamppost to rooftop. At night the square would come alive with illumination and music, and throngs of people would crowd every inch. From the Zocalo we hopped on a bus and made our compulsory trip to the main market in Oaxaca, Central de Abastos. Checking out the local markets is always a great way to truly comprehend the city residents. Abastos reflected the vibrant nature of its inhabitants.
Vibrant colors, animated conversations, pungent aromas assailed us as we stepped through one of the half hidden doorways. Food stalls were lined up beside merchants selling handmade leather goods, mountains of chilies of every shape, color and size sat beside vendors of intricate tapestries and jars full of every manner of spice competed against the array of beautiful lace clothing. This was indeed a shoppers' paradise!
Prices were so reasonable that the idea of bargaining often seemed to me insulting to the craftsmen of such quality items. The tantalizing aroma of chocolate, the integral ingredient of Oaxacan moles wafted through the marketplace and reminded me that I had to savor one of the seven varieties that were the specialty of the region. I enjoyed a huge glass of delicious carrot and orange juice for 10 pesos ($1) and some spicy potato croquetas as we made our way up and down the aisles. The whole experience was unforgettable.
Oaxaca is home to many of southern Mexico's most lavish and breathtaking places of worship. We spent the rest of the day exploring several of these. Perhaps the most impressive is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, a majestic building whose interior is covered completely with gold leaf and elaborate reliefs. The museum at its side is worth a visit, and like many in the city is splendidly kept and full of interesting historical artifacts.
That evening we dined in one of the many restaurants in the Zocalo. The chicken tamales I ordered came bathed in black mole sauce and only the Spanish word "rrriquisimo" can describe that mouth watering experience! Just the memory is enough to arouse my taste buds. I even ventured as far as trying the local specialty of chapulines, fried crickets, which were actually quite tasty. I ate my first mouthfuls with my eyes closed!
My mother on the other hand, is diabetic and would not eat the sauce. I managed to persuade the waiter to bring her the chicken unadorned, with rice and a salad. Now my mother normally does not like chicken, but I was amazed to see her consume two large pieces with obvious pleasure and gusto. She never ate my chicken like that when I cooked it for her!
 | | Monte Alban |
The following day we spent the morning at the nearby ruins of Monte Alban, one of Mexico's most magnificent pre-Columbian sites. Constructed by the Zapotec around 600 B.C., the site covers nearly 15 square miles and the structures are in surprisingly good condition. 40,000 inhabitants were at one time housed here, but it was later conquered by the Mixtec who used it primarily as a burial ground.
Mitla, further south of Oaxaca, offers a more spectacular view of Mixtec life and is also easily accessible. A 40 minute bus ride brought us back to the city and yes, more shopping! In the Calle 20 de noviembre market, which specializes in foodstuffs, I was introduced to the intoxicating regional drink, Mezcal, with the obligatory gusano (worm) at the bottom of the bottle. It certainly packed quite a punch! I decided to try the red mole, which although it does not contain any chocolate, is well spiced and flavorful. Still, being a chocolate lover, my preference was definitely for the darker, stronger varieties.
A word to the wise - the chocolate manufactured in Oaxaca is primarily for culinary use and not for snacking on as we know it. It makes wonderful sauces, fabulous hot chocolate drinks and amazing desserts.
December in Oaxaca is a exhilarating place, with the colorful displays, frequent processions celebrating the season and the superb musical performances in the main square. Despite the crowds, I never got the feeling of being overrun by tourists. Of course there were many, mostly Americans and Europeans, but the town definitely belonged to its citizenry, who obviously appreciated and reveled in all the festivities and warm interaction.
I was most pleasantly surprised to find places playing salsa music -that's right salsa in and around town and was lucky enough to catch a live show at the Club La Tentacion. The music makes you want to participate - in some way!
A trip to Oaxaca would not have been complete without an excursion to the neighboring village of San Bartolo Coyotepec, where the famous black pottery is crafted. There were frequent colectivos near the main bus station. For as little as $2 the driver would squeeze as many people as possible in the back and front seats and deposit you 20 minutes later by the roadside in front of the pottery stands.
Although many of the items tended to be similar, we were able to find several interesting and unique pieces. Chatting with a 78 year old craftswoman surrounded in her studio by shelves laden with her creations, I discovered that today it is the men who collect and prepare the clay that is then fashioned by the artists. From simple vases to brightly painted figurines, her workshop was a true testament to the skill and originality of Oaxacan women.
Our visit to Oaxaca had been a real treat - a short eventful getaway filled with memorable experiences. Everything had been perfect and it had certainly lived up to its outstanding billing. Fortunately I had come prepared with a large suitcase to cram the many gifts and souvenirs we had acquired. No need to wonder if I would return to this enchanting corner of Mexico. The answer is a resounding, yes!
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